Parties & Celebrations
La Dolce Vita in Capri
I have been traveling to Capri for many years, and it remains one of my favorite summer destinations; just a 25-minute boat ride from the beautiful seaside town of Naples on the Amalfi Coast of Italy. I particularly enjoy Capri. After all these years of heavy tourism, it’s still authentic, and despite all the designer labels and shopping, Capri has kept its charm. To me, finding a place that’s still authentic is what I find most appealing when I’m looking for a vacation destination. Although you can find every brand imaginable, there are still boutiques that are unique to Capri, with craftsmen from jewelers to sandal makers and wine makers working their trade generation after generation.
The warm salty water surrounding Capri Island is ideal for swimming. Plenty of fish including tuna, clams, and mussels live in the waters and in the gorgeous coral reefs that grow on the sides of the cliffs. And there are no sharks!!
For Tiberius, the second Emperor of Rome, Capri was his favorite destination, and in the first century AD he built the Villa Jovis where he resided for eleven years. For me, I’m happy to have even just a few days on the island enjoying its majestic charm and beauty. I came in search of Linguine a la Vongole (linguine with clams), and I found the best!
How to Get There:
There are no airports on the island, so by boat it is. The first choice, both luxurious and convenient, is to have your hotel arrange for a helicopter or private boat to take you directly from the port in Naples. Request they send a car to the Naples airport as well, just a little extra expense that definitely saves time and avoids any confusion. If you speak Italian, you won't have a problem, but for the rest of us, make it easy on yourself and have the hotel make your arrangements from the moment you depart the plane.
The second option is to take a 25-minute trip on a “water jet,” a boat that totes large groups of people to and from the island. Tour guides are plentiful, and a quick 45-minute tour of the island is well worth the time and expense. The island is so rich in history; don’t miss the chance to learn all that you can. Afterwards, stroll the pathways in town, shop in some of the best stores in the world, make your way to any one of the island's magnificent beaches, and of course, dine to your heart's content; the restaurants are extraordinary.
Where to Stay:
I always stay at the Capri Palace in Ana Capri. It’s quietly situated at the top of the mountain with stunning views of the Mediterranean. It also boasts L’Olivo, the only 2-star restaurant on the island. My friend, Tonino Cacace, the owner and visionary behind the hotel, has done a remarkable job of making great improvements to the hotel each year. It’s actually an amazing hotel, which features an extensive art collection and one of Italy’s most sought after spas -– Capri Palace Beauty Farm as it’s known to the many who come year after year.
A very loyal clientele return year after year because of the impeccable food and service and the charming nature of the staff.
What to Do and See:
The Capri Palace hotel runs a shuttle service to its über chic beach club il Riccio located just above the Blue Grotto, also known as Tiberius’ Bath, the bathing spot of choice for Tiberius and Julius Caesar. Lying on the deck of the beach club that’s anchored to the cliff’s side, watching the boats, large and small come and go, is nothing short of mesmerizing. It was here where I discovered the best linguine with clams I’ve ever had. It was just one of the several courses I enjoyed; the freshest seafood and crustaceans right from the local waters coupled with several bottles of rosé and a few refreshing dips in the cool Mediterranean sea. I didn’t want the day to end. In fact, I loved it so much that by choice I ended up spending two days in a row at il Riccio, and actually came back a week later to share the experience with some close friends who I met up with later on my trip.
Besides walking around town and exploring every inch of this magical oasis, one of my favorite things to do is to sit in the square around sunset enjoying a cocktail and be entertained by the never-ending parade of fascinating, old, young, chic, bohemian, and everything in between people walking by.
Where to Eat:
There are many spectacular restaurants. One of my favorites is Da Paolino which is located under a dense lemon grove and tucked away next to the local school. They offer one of the best seafood buffets I have ever enjoyed. Make sure you save some room for one of their delicious homemade pastas or the grilled fish.
Another favorite on the island is the stuffed zucchini flower blossoms at La Capanina located just off the main square. The décor is simple, the food extraordinary, and the entire experience one not to be missed.
For a fun dining experience, you must try Aurora. You’ll always find a good group of people, a little on the younger side, that the other more expensive restaurants seem to attract. With the most delicious paper-thin pizza imaginable, Aurora is a must.
And for those who are in the athletic mood, you’ll definitely work up an appetite by walking down a thousand steps from the Punta Tragara hotel to enjoy the linguine al a vongole at Da Luigi. Located right on the water, more than half the patrons come by boat. The walk down isn’t the problem; it’s the thousand steps up, filled with pasta and wine, that’s daunting!
As a final favorite and one not to be missed if you can take the time and hire a boat, is not on the island of Capri but a short boat ride away and well worth the effort; Lo Scoglio in Nerano. The food is amazing. The restaurant floats above the water, offers some of the most delicious Italian food I’ve ever had, and year after year going back to Lo Scoglio and being reunited with the family who owns and operates and cooks, is like going home to family.
The Nightlife:
Animecore is the famed nightspot just up from the Quisisana Hotel. About 300 people squeeze themselves into this basement and are thoroughly entertained by a band complete with horn section and at least five vocalists, who sing everything from Italian folk songs to the standards we all know the words to. Before you know it, the cocktails are flowing and people end up dancing on the tables singing along to the music. Even if you don’t know the words, after a few strong cocktails and the magnetic energy in the room, it doesn’t really matter, the key is to sing, sing loudly, and have fun!
Conclusion:
So I left Capri, and surprisingly after all the pasta, gelato, and wine, my waistline remained the same; it could have been the thousand steps up and down to Da Luigi or the late nights singing and dancing with friends at Animecore. Whatever it was, I can only attest to the feeling that there is something to be said about a town with steep hills and tons of swimming that allows you to eat and dine guilt-free. I can’t wait to come back and do it all over again...till next time, I count the days.
As always, there's more to come!
